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<OAI-PMH schemaLocation=http://www.openarchives.org/OAI/2.0/ http://www.openarchives.org/OAI/2.0/OAI-PMH.xsd> <responseDate>2018-01-15T18:26:11Z</responseDate> <request identifier=oai:HAL:hal-01234952v1 verb=GetRecord metadataPrefix=oai_dc>http://api.archives-ouvertes.fr/oai/hal/</request> <GetRecord> <record> <header> <identifier>oai:HAL:hal-01234952v1</identifier> <datestamp>2018-01-11</datestamp> <setSpec>type:ART</setSpec> <setSpec>subject:phys</setSpec> <setSpec>collection:AGROPOLIS</setSpec> <setSpec>collection:CNRS</setSpec> <setSpec>collection:GM</setSpec> <setSpec>collection:INSU</setSpec> <setSpec>collection:L2C</setSpec> <setSpec>collection:MIPS</setSpec> <setSpec>collection:UNIV-AG</setSpec> <setSpec>collection:TDS-MACS</setSpec> <setSpec>collection:B3ESTE</setSpec> <setSpec>collection:UNIV-MONTPELLIER</setSpec> </header> <metadata><dc> <publisher>HAL CCSD</publisher> <title lang=en>Growth of cuspate spits</title> <creator>Bouchette, Frederic</creator> <creator>Manna, Miguel</creator> <creator>MONTALVO, Pablo</creator> <creator>Nutz, Alexis</creator> <creator>Schuster, Mathieu</creator> <creator>Ghienne, Jean-Francois</creator> <contributor>Géosciences Montpellier ; Université des Antilles et de la Guyane (UAG) - Institut national des sciences de l'Univers (INSU - CNRS) - Université de Montpellier (UM) - Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS)</contributor> <contributor>Laboratoire Charles Coulomb (L2C) ; Université de Montpellier (UM) - Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS)</contributor> <contributor>Institut de physique du globe de Strasbourg (IPGS) ; Institut national des sciences de l'Univers (INSU - CNRS) - Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS)</contributor> <source>ISSN: 0749-0208</source> <source>EISSN: 1551-5036</source> <source>Journal of Coastal Research</source> <publisher>Coastal Education and Research Foundation</publisher> <identifier>hal-01234952</identifier> <identifier>https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01234952</identifier> <source>https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01234952</source> <source>Journal of Coastal Research, Coastal Education and Research Foundation, 2014, pp.47-52. 〈10.2112/SI70-009.1〉</source> <identifier>DOI : 10.2112/SI70-009.1</identifier> <relation>info:eu-repo/semantics/altIdentifier/doi/10.2112/SI70-009.1</relation> <language>en</language> <subject lang=en>nearshore</subject> <subject lang=en>sand spit</subject> <subject lang=en>Pelnard-Considere</subject> <subject lang=en>non-linear diffusion equation</subject> <subject>[PHYS.MPHY] Physics [physics]/Mathematical Physics [math-ph]</subject> <type>info:eu-repo/semantics/article</type> <type>Journal articles</type> <description lang=en>The present work concerns cuspate spits: slightly symmetrical geomorphic features growing along the shoreline in shallow waters. We develop a new formulation for the dynamics of cuspate spits. Our approach relies on classical paradigms such as a conservation law to the shoreface scale and an explicit formula for alongshore sediment transport. We derive a non-linear diffusion equation and a fully explicit solution for the growth of cuspate spits. From this general expression, we found interesting applications to quantify shoreline dynamics in the presence of cuspate spits. In particular, we point out a simple method for the datation of a cuspate spit given a limited number of input parameters. Furthermore, we develop a method to quantify the mean alongshore diffusivity along a shoreline perturbed by well-defined cuspate spits of known sizes. Finally, we introduce a formal relationship between the geometric characteristics (amplitude, length) of cuspate spits, which reproduce the self-similarity of these geomorphic features.</description> <date>2014-04</date> </dc> </metadata> </record> </GetRecord> </OAI-PMH>